What this setup does is eliminate 2 sets of points, condensers, and coils (the HV output of each coil has 2 spark plug leads). As there is no fuel charge in that other cylinder, the false charge has no effect. They use only 2 points (or PEI sensors) vs 4 points, and fire both the cylinder ready to be ignited, and the cylinder that is 180 degrees away. What you may be getting confused with is that some 4-stroke 4-cylinder motorcycles have a false spark plug fire on the exhaust stroke. It does not matter that it is a 2-stroke or 4-stroke. That firing should correspond with the timing mark which spins with the crankshaft. In a 2-stroke, that means on every rotation of the crankshaft. Note that setting the timing at 4,000 rpm as the manual specifies requires a timing light rated for 8,000 rpm, and most aren't.Īn inductive timing light is triggered by the spark plug firing. For example, at idle it sparks every time, then when you speed up, it lights every 2nd spark, then every 3rd or 4th, etc., so it never has to actually flash at ridiculous speeds. It seems to handle the higher speeds by skipping sparks. It behaved perfectly to 7,000, which is equivalent to 14,000 for a 4-stroke. Unlike my old light, this one doesn't start doing odd things at high rpm to make it appear that there's timing jitter where there isn't. I tried the 3551 on the bench, up to about 7,000 rpm and it worked great. The more expensive ones have things like digital rpm display, advance setting, and dwell measurement. I finally got down to the basic version, the 3551, which is just a timing light, still rated for 10,000 rpm, for $26.54 and free shipping from Amazon. Then I discovered their whole line of timing lights, including three less expensive models. It's model 5568, and can be had for a little over $100 delivered. Then I found that Innova sells one that looks the same and has the same features, as far as I can tell (maybe same manufacturer). I started out looking at Snap-On timing lights, which are rated for 10,000 rpm (5,000 for a 2-stroke). I originally posted this in the "What's your latest purchase" thread, but it comes up fairly often, and it's hard to find there, so I thought I'd repost it here: I was looking for the 1st of April posting date on that one ja-moo The problem with standard timing lights is they are designed for 4 strokes and half the sparks per minute. Ter mi nals and become very hot from electric current.Ja-moo wrote:If you are going to buy one, get one specifically for 2 strokes. Remove fi nger rings and metal wrist bands. Do not let test leads wind up in a moving fan or pulley. To reduce the hazard of igniting gasoline vapor. Keep spark producing devices at least 0.5m (18") above the fl oor Live engine can be more dam ag ing than the shock. Avoid electrical shocks caused by getting close to live ignition wires Keep your work area well ventilated and free of exhaust. Before working on a vehicle set the brakes and block the wheels.īeware of automatic parking brake releases. Do not make sparks or allow fl ames near batteries. Keep the space around a battery well ventilated. Gas or even weld tools into a battery short circuit. Ve hi cle body metal and the hot terminal can cause sparks to ignite Never use a wrench on the ungrounded battery terminal until Follow up with a neutralizing so lu tion of baking If a battery explodes fl ush the acid away from skin with generousĪmounts of water. Read All Instructions Before Using The An a lyz er-Īlways wear eye protection when testing ve hi cles.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |